28-29 May 2025
After visiting Würzburg in 2021, I wrote: “The Nuremberg Residenz is too groß and grand, Bamburg Residenz too small and simple, but Würzburg Residenz is just right.” I enjoyed my visit to the city’s highlights then and I look forward to revisiting and experiencing the city once more.
Once again, Martha and I have traveled by efficient German regional trains. In spite of light, persistent rain and cold wind, we meet our connection to arrive at Würzburg’s Hbf. From there a short 10-minute walk takes us into the old city and to our lodging at the Vier Jahreszeiten.
Würzburg – A “Burg” and Its Castle
Würzburg is a historic city in northern Bavaria, picturesquely nestled in the Main River valley and surrounded by vineyards. It blends deep-rooted history, Baroque grandeur, and a vibrant university-town energy. It also sports a castle/fortress, gorgeous palace, a plethora of church bells, and a lively Marktplatz.
Würzburg, and Rothenburg, lie along what the German’s refer to as the Romantic Road. This section trails southerly from Würzburg to the city of Füssen. Additionally, the city is included on the Jakobs Way/St. James Way for pilgrims.
Founded by the Celts and later settled by the Franconians, Würzburg rose to prominence in the Middle Ages as the seat of powerful prince-bishops. Who were the Franconians?
The Franconians are a regional German people with deep historical roots, primarily found in northern Bavaria and parts of Thuringia, Baden-Württemberg, and Hesse. Named after the Franks, the same Germanic tribe that helped defeat the Roman Empire, they gave France its name. However, these Franconians didn’t follow the rest of the Franks west. Instead, they stayed put in central Germany and developed their own unique cultural identity. I am so glad they remained!
29 MAY – ASCENSION DAY
Our visit coincides with a holiday. Ascension Day in Germany, known as Christi Himmelfahrt, is a Christian public holiday celebrated 40 days after Easter Sunday, commemorating the ascension of Jesus Christ into heaven. Church bells loudly reverberate over the city. Along every street, we can spot a saint or stature of Mary.
Ascension Day always falls on a Thursday and is observed nationwide with church services and closures of businesses. In addition to its religious significance, the day is also celebrated as Father’s Day (Vatertag) in Germany.
This secular tradition often involves groups of men going on hikes, barbecuing, and consuming alcohol. Today, these groups seem as prevalent as the religious icons on the streets and building facades.
Franconia (Franken) isn’t a modern political region, but culturally and historically it’s very distinct from Bavaria, even though it’s officially part of the state of Bavaria today. Ask a Franconian if they’re Bavarian and you might get a polite correction—or a very firm “NO!”
Franconians are known for their medieval towns, hearty food, wine-making (especially dry white wines like Silvaner), and an astounding number of breweries. They also speak Franconian dialects, which differ noticeably from Bavarian German.
Fortress and Palace and Bridge
Würzburg’s Early ecclesiastical rulers left behind some of the city’s most stunning landmarks, most famously the Würzburg Residence, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This palace, built in the 18th century, remains one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture in Europe. Interiors feature an awe-inspiring grand staircase and ceiling fresco by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. Much of the Residence was destroyed in the 16 March bombing.
The city also boasts the Marienberg Fortress and Castle, a medieval stronghold overlooking the Main River. Statues of saints adorn the Alte Mainbrücke, a 15th-century stone bridge over the Main. Below flows the Main with its locks.
Würzburg received heavy bombing during the last days of World War II. A single air raid destroyed most of the old town on 16 March 1945. This story and its aftermath are expertly told in the small historic Wenceslas Hall next to the Rathaus. Its memorial room honors the victims of the bombing attack. After this 20-minute bombing raid, only 7 buildings in Würzburg remained intact.
Walking the Altstadt
Würzburg represents an old town that is wonderful to roam. Its varied churches, like Dom St. Kilian/Würzburg Cathedral and Marienkapelle (St.Mary’s Chapel) deserve a moment to step in and explore. In the crypt of the Neumünster lies the Frankish apostles named Kilian, who was killed here in 689.
The perfect stop for lunch or a cold drink would be the Würzburger Ratskeller located in the heart of the old city. The Ratskeller is a historic restaurant located within the Grafeneckart, the oldest part of Würzburg’s city hall complex. The Grafeneckart dates to around 1200. The city acquired the building in 1316, transforming it into the town hall.
The 180-foot tower reached its current height in the mid-15th century and was equipped with a bell and clock in 1456. The Ratskeller itself was established as a restaurant in 1914, situated in the vaulted cellars beneath the town hall.
Würzburg Today
The city has been impressively rebuilt since 1945, balancing preservation with modern life. Today, Würzburg boasts about its fine Franconian wines, especially the dry white Silvaner. It enjoys a lively cultural scene thanks to its large student population. In short, Würzburg represents a city where bishops once ruled like kings, palaces rise from vineyard-covered hills, and I’m never far from a glass of excellent local wine or a tall, cold glass of Weissbier.
Whether one enjoys the atmosphere at Marktplatz, the overlook above the city from the Marienberg Fortress Gardens, or pausing along the Alte Mainbrücke among its rows of saints, Würzburg pleases. It is charming, relaxing, and a perfect locale for toasting ones’ experiences in the medieval cities of Bavaria.
My previous adventures in Würzberg appear in my 2021 article:
0 Comments