Exploring Inner Transylvania

Saxon Villages of Prejmer and Viscri  –  24 May 2019

This morning, we motor further into the Transylvania region of Romania. The countryside is peaceful and verdant, the villages quiet with the rustic feel of what I would expect of rural Romania. Mountains surround a flat valley of rich green fields and expanses of bright yellow rapeseed. Rivers of snow trickle down the distant peaks of the Carpathians while sun shines on white storks shopping the farmer’s hay fields for frogs and grasshoppers. There is the occasional man and his herd of cows. Lush, healthy forests of beech and timber march up the hillsides for as far as I can see. This is perhaps some of the most beautiful land in the world where I have driven.

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Visiting Saxons and Knights

Brașov and Râșnov, Romania

23 May 2019

Brașov lays within the loving southeastern curve of the Carpathian Mountains and its location is breathtaking. Its oldest traces of human activity and settlements date to the Neolithic age (about 9500 BC). Brașov is an important Saxon city and its architecture, fortifications, towers, churches, town square, and history are outstanding. Not only is the city the birthplace of the Romanian national anthem, but the birthplace of one of Vlad Dracul’s lady friends. (more…)

Traipsing Thru Transylvania

Sinaia and Bran Castle, Romania

22 May 2019

Any science fiction buff recognizes the Carpathian Mountains. These mountains form a 900-mile range in Central and Eastern Europe with peaks reaching upwards of 7800 feet. Over half of the Carpathians lie in Romania, where the forests are home to brown bears, lynxes and wolves. Its passes are gateways to Transylvania, the land of the Magyar, the Moc and Romanian peoples – and Count Dracula. There is a drapery of snow across distant peaks and a layer of clouds hover over the range. I can hear the “children of the night” howling my welcome.

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Bucharest Is Not Budapest!

21 May 2019

I enjoy traveling independently. The planning of my trip is as enjoyable as the actual travel. Both are learning experiences. However, there are destinations where it is more difficult to maneuver as a solo female traveler; exploring the countryside of some countries necessitates a different approach. Thus, for the remainder of my trip, I join an organized tour which will move me around rural Romania. From now forward, I am at the mercy of another’s planning: their choice of hotels, restaurants, and sites of interest, their time schedules. Our group is small, just eight bladders. (more…)

Exploring The Other Side of Bucharest

19-20 May 2019

At the entrance to Strada Lipscani in Old Town is the mandatory Roman Statue recognized throughout the world. Rome’s she wolf nurtures Romulus and Remus. The Italians gave it to Romania in 1906 but it does look sort of out of place. But, it is a good entry point to Old Town. One can stroll these streets for hours enjoying the mix of architecture, much of it influenced by classical and French influences, Greco-Roman, neoclassical, and baroque; a little Art Deco here and a little communist efficiency there. (more…)

Bucharest on a Monday Evening

18 May 2019

What are you all going to do for excitement without me around here?  It’s going to be as boring as Bucharest on a Monday night.” – Count Dracula

Biserica Sfântul Nicolae Șelari

My cousin Pam and I arrive at our hotel in Old Town Bucharest and are eager to see if old Drac was correct. Though I am meeting a tour in a few days, there are things I want to see and enjoy on my own. Tours do not cater to the individual but to the masses. There are churches, architecture, fountains, museums, and cafes along cobbled stone streets of historic Lipscani to explore.

Though the communist tried to suppress the practice of religion and destroyed many churches, there remains a neighborhood church around every corner. Romanians, long denied religious freedoms, practice their faith and churches are busy with weddings, christenings, and services. Some churches are beautifully restored while others still reflect the neglect of the communist era. All Orthodox churches are worth a few minutes stop to admire their frescoes.

I would be hard pressed to pick a favorite but if I had to choose it would be a church dedicated to St. Nicholas or St. Nicolae. There are at least four found in Bucharest. (more…)

Varna and the Black Sea Coast

“Europe’s new funky-town”

Варна, България – Varna, Bulgria

16-17 May 2019

Varna drapes around Bulgaria’s Black Sea Coast and the lovely Gulf of Varna. Originally called Odessos and an important Thracian seaside port, Varna has been a major economic and cultural center for over 3000 years. Lots of history, mild temperatures, ancient Roman ruins, turquoise seas, and the oldest gold treasure in the world – the walled city of Varna sounds like my kind of destination.

Pam and I take the train from Stara Zagora to Varna. The countryside is mostly flat and agricultural. The train is mostly dirty and slow. However, by afternoon we are dipping our toes into the Black Sea.

What is special about Varna? For one, it’s ancient history. (more…)