26 September 2018
It is with some degree of relief that I am driven northwest to my final hotel of the tour. We will lodge our final four nights in Yerevan, capital city of Armenia since 1918. But first, I overlook two boarders and a mythical mountain. (more…)
25 September 2018
The excitement of spotting
Mount Ararat
Traveling south along the shoreline of Lake Sevan, we have had it too easy and begin to climb into the mountains traversing switchbacks up to the 7,900’ Vardenyats Mountain Pass. The views just gets better and better as our little caravan winds along the Silk Road Wine Trail. Mountains, unique rock formations, deep gorges, green plateaus with large herds of sheep, and shepherds’ huts dot the landscape.
And then, just around our next turn, atop Vorotan Pass, there to the West, looms Mount Ararat, snow covered and proud, poking above the near mountain peaks. And there, just for a minute, is Lesser Ararat, 4,000’ shorter than big brother but equally exciting to see. (more…)
24 September 2018
Willie Nelson is singing in my ear. As so often happens during these marathon travel-fests, “On The Road Again” resonates in my brain like the bass drum at a rock concert. We depart Tbilisi south through somewhat flatter terrain and cross the border at Bagratashen into Armenia. Our farewell to Georgia is very appropriate as we drive through Shulaveri, the well known ‘city of grape seeds’ where some centuries ago the prized 8000 year-old grape seeds were discovered.
The Georgian/Armenian border crossing is uneventful and easy: off our van through Passport, onto our van to drive a few feet. Off our van with luggage for a final goodby, a walk through Passport and customs to board a large Mercedes bus. The Passport guy had lovely eyes and smile and perfect English, offering a “Welcome to Armenia.” (more…)
22-23 September 2018
The Queen Who Would Be King
Morning departure from Akhaltsikhe finds us venturing further southwest into the region of Samtshke-Javakheti, named for two of the original Georgian tribes, the Meskh and Javakhs. This region is often seen as the cradle of Georgian culture. The distance is short, just 38 miles, but as is the case in this mountainous country, twists, dips, climbs and time are all relative. (more…)
21 September 2018
We retrace our miles south down the Military Road through sheep herds; following deep gorges, waterfalls and lakes; through the magnificent scenery of the Greater Caucasus as its trees begin to show their fall colors. Today we learn about a more somber time of history.
One should never forget history: the who, what, when and why. Sometimes there are no answers to why, but there are always lessons to be learned. (more…)
19-20 September
The Georgian Military Highway wears an ominous name but, presently, is a scenic route that has linked Europe and Asia for centuries: seventy-five miles of twists and turns, sparkling lakes, waterfalls, mountain peaks, passes and stomach churning edges. I am expertly driven north along the historic Georgian Military Road which weaves from Tbilisi to Vladikavkaz, Russia. Traditionally the route of invaders and merchants, it now sees the passage of more skiers and tourists than conquering hoards. (more…)
17-18 September 2018
Great salt lake and gusty plains of Alazani Valley
I weave eighty miles of up and down and up, endless around and around on sad roads within these Greater Caucasus. Our Georgian driver speeds us around pot holes, cows and the occasional slow driver. We cross over the Gombori Pass, our final peak at an altitude of just 5,315 feet, but the getting there is what sets my stomach on edge. Along our drive, I am distracted by the small quiet villages and panoramic views of the Alazani Valley, the beautiful waves of long grasses flowing in the gusty winds, and the white and gold salt lake of this high arid plain. Mother Nature has a way of soothing the tortured soul of God Vertigo. So do the Ginger pills I swallowed. (more…)