Stately Ruins and Castles, Lush Gardens and Shallow Lakes

Magyarország. –  4 June 2019

A day trip in Magyarország (translate as Hungary) takes me east of Budapest to the small town of Zsámbék. Zsámbék has been inhabited since Paleolithic times when stone tools were first used. It has been home to Celtic, Roman and Avar peoples and is an archeologist’s dream. Churches have been built and destroyed in this city since 1180. King Matthias’ son had a fortress here in 1467. Turks and an 1764 earthquake laid the city and buildings to ruins. However, German settlers arrived after the Turks and rebuilt Zsámbék and its churches using the original stones of the ruined settlement. It is less the rebuilt settlement than the strikingly beautiful church ruins that capture my attention. (more…)

From National Parks to Palaces

Hortobágy National Park and Sissi’s Place  –  3 June 2019

There probably couldn’t be a better introduction to Hungary than visiting a national park with a nature-loving biologist. My destination is the Puszta region of northeastern Hungary and its lovely Hortobágy National Park.

Puszta is known for the presence of several endemic breeds of animals. Being a wide-open, relatively flat region known as the Great Plain, I hope to see something moving. The plain, famous for its Asiatic vegetation, is so unique in flora and fauna that it is recognized as a World Heritage Site. Hortobágy National Park is central to this region. (more…)

Kalotaszentkiraly to Hajduszoboszlo

Visiting Unpronounceable Villages in Romania and Hungary

2 June 2019

The sun rose twice this morning over the rocky peaks of Székelykő. The rain, for the moment, has moved north and blue sky with white clouds reign. The birds are as happy as I about this bright, sunny day. It is another one of those days when I visit places I can’t pronounce. No matter. The scenery will be spectacular, the people friendly, the food delicious, the beer refreshing and the destinations interesting. Tonight I sleep in Hungary.  (more…)

Rimetea – Where The Sun Rises Twice

31 May and 1 June 2019

Rimetea is located amid a dramatic setting of lush meadows, encircling mountains and rocky escarpments. My simple Transylvanian inn overlooks Székelykő, a sacred peak. It is said that here, the sun rises twice as it crawls across the eastern sky at the edge of the mountains. The birds chirp, the sun rises, a lonely dog howls in the distance, the rooster crows and another idyllic day in Romania begins. (more…)

Borgo Pass – Traveling In The Wake of Dracula

Our Return To Transylvania  –  30 May 2019

Today is what travelers on a tour call “kick-back” day. We face a long drive across the eastern Carpathains, over a few high passes, and through the Transylvanian Basin. Our destination is Torockoszetgyorgy, a town I couldn’t pronounce no matter how much alcohol I consumed. Our drive will be 200 miles of magnificent scenery, small villages, and 7 hours of rest and relaxation watching the Transylvania world go by. (more…)

Painted Churches and Monasteries of Moldavia

Visiting Four “holy scriptures in color”  –  29 May 2019

Could not have been a more perfect day. As I listen to the thunder booming in the mountains to the east, a cloudburst rains down on the lovely gardens outside my window. Yet, throughout the day, visiting four monasteries and a few surprise sites, nothing but sun and mild breezes accompanied us. Only bummers for the day is our hotel has no Ursus beer and I must hang out the window for internet service. Trăiesc România! (more…)

Painted Churches and Monasteries of Moldavia

Three Masterpieces of Art. –  28 May 2019

Voronet Monastery

One of the most incredible sights in the world are the Painted Churches and Monasteries of Moldavia. The historical region of Bucovina is famous for them. There are 22 painted monasteries with 16 restored. Seven churches were placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1993, an eighth registered in 2010. Most of these wonders are contained in a relative small region. I will be visiting seven of them over the next two days. (more…)