Aksum – Former “Hood” of The Queen of Sheba

22 January 2018

I leave green, fertile fields for dry, barren, rocky Tigray. If there is one thing this region has, it’s rocks: a plethora of rocks on top of rocks used for building and terracing. Oh, and an occasional camel.

Ethiopia’s Kebre Nagast (Book of Kings) recounts how Aksum was the city in which the Queen of Sheba resided as early as the 10th century B.C. It is written that the son of Sheba and King Solomon (Menelik) brought the Ark of the Covenant to Aksum where it remains in a sanctuary to this day. Famous long before the time of Jesus, Aksum was the capital of the Aksumite region, one of the oldest African empires, and acted as a strategic bridge between Africa and Asia for a thousand years.

After witnessing the festival of Timkat in Gondar, I am eager to visit Askum – its ancient buildings, stelae, baths, churches and, according to Ethiopians, the site of the true Ark of the Covenant. Because of the Ark’s presence, Aksum is considered the holiest city in Ethiopia. (more…)

Simien Mountains

20-21 January 2018

Sunset in the Simiens

An arduous climb out of Gondar has brought me to the massive Simien Mountains. According to Google Maps, which tells me what my stomach already knows, I have ascended up 7450’ just to descend down 3,668, up again and down again and around and around to reach my 10,735’ mountaintop lodge. The sunset which welcomes me has made the drive worth it.

I awake to the brisk chill of the Simiens. I am eager, but winded at this altitude, to explore this spectacular landscape; its mountainous passes and rugged beauty has earned Simien Mountains National Park the distinction of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  (more…)

Bahir Dar and the Blue Nile

17 January 2018

Distances in Ethiopia are deceiving. This is a land of spectacular but rugged landscape, much of which looks like the Grand Canyon on steroids. The reports say there are over 20k miles of roads. However, that doesn’t mean they are all paved, lit, dual lane, wide enough for trucks and buses to pass, nor that drivers or animals follow any rules. Cows and goats have the right of way and they just don’t care that I may be in a hurry. One travel site warned about the presence of land mines on some of the more isolated roads. Ethiopia’s roads have never been easy, something the Italians found out when they thought they could easily conquer these noble people using roads better suited for donkeys than tanks, when it took days to go a few score of miles.

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Arriving in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

14 January 2018

Lion Monument

Lion Monument

Ethiopia uses a 13-month calendar, with twelve 30-day months and a 13th leap month of five or six days. And instead of using standard international time, which would put it in the same time zone as Moscow, it works on a 12-hour clock determined by sunrise and sunset.

After about 36 hours travel time, my personal clock is ticking on Holy Cow time. It is not easy getting to Africa. I have attempted easing my pain with a few strategies learned from 45 years of flying. I ignore other’s advice and drink alcohol. I take my body’s advice and fly Business Class. Logic advises me to get a day room for my 10-hour layover. I have read to take care with Ethiopian time because what I would call 7 a.m. is simply called “1 o’clock” in Ethiopian time. Well, I try to tell myself it is “1 o’clock”  but my body knows I’m lying. (more…)